Sunday 10 February 2013

Juergen tells it


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Photography is an integral part of the business that we call fashion. It is so glaringly obvious that even a lowly fashion writer takes a backseat. Pictorial fashion blogs are instagraming their way into the public's consciousness so fast that people forget that before the camera there was the inkwell and quill. Who am I am to disagree with this 21st century way of communicating the trends? What better way to capture an outfit or new SS collection than with a click of a button?

I was reminded of this fact when last Sunday I visited Juergen Teller: Woo at the ICA. His raw images pemeate like none other, as you turn the pages of your latest copy of Vogue the trademark Juergen Teller advertorial stands out for not being ultra slick.

The Victorial Beckham legs out of shopping bag image for the Marc Jacobs reveals another side to the normally never-seen-without sunglasses and Birkin tote brand. In a world of retouching and camera wizardry it is refreshing to come across a more 'warts and all', backstage door to the underbelly of the fashion world and gain a little bit more access to the 'VIP' area.

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His latest Vivienne Westwood campaign is no exception, with his favourite muse Kate Moss staunchily staring into the camera. At the Woo exhibition I discovered the iconic image of Moss in a wheelbarrow was the product of a nightmare trip with the model. Teller describes his legs becoming so sunburnt they swelled up and rubbed together and being woken up by huge grotesque toads making love in the middle of the night. I did wonder if this anecdote seemed fitting as there is motif of sex that reverberates through his work, the full fontal shot of Westwood as you enter the space testifies this, however I feel the naked appendages are more about uncovering the person's soul than they are about sexiness.

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Juergen Teller: Woo is on at the ICA until March 17 2013